View Full Version : Olympic bows
Xs1t0ry
01-02-2008, 12:28 PM
What is the real difference between an Olympic recurve bow and a traditional recurve bow? (Aside from the fact that they're made from a different material and thus probably lighter).
What price range do you need to get into to get a decent one for target?
Thanks!
stevegabriel
01-02-2008, 01:26 PM
Actually, they're probably heavier. Depending on which one you choose, the riser section alone will weigh about 1200 grams (2 1/2 lbs). You can get different length risers, the most common being 23" and 25", though some companies are now making 17" to 21" risers for the hunting community.
The limbs are usually ILF (international limb fitting) standard, interchangable, and allow you to select your bow length (58" to 70" depending on the riser length). The limbs can also be selected in 2 lb increments, allowing you to pick the bow that suits you best.
The ILF fittings also allow you to adjust the tiller of the limbs, allowing you to modify the draw weight of the bow by as much as 10%. This allows you a degree of tuning your bow to your arrows.
Compared to traditional wood bows, they are quite noisy. Some of the gang from TradTalk may be able to tell you how to quiet the bows down for hunting.
A KAP T-REX riser is about $100 - $120 (US) . T-Rex wood/glass limbs will run in the $100(US) range. Winstorm wood/glass limbs are around $150 and Winstorm Carbon/wood limbs about $170 - $190. Add another $20- $30 for a string, plunger and elevated rest.
Figure $250 - $300 for new stuff. If you're primarialy a hunter looking to try the Oly stuff, check the TradTalk website, since the guys are predominantly hunters who mostly shoot Oly style gear barebow.
Have Fun!
Steve
Xs1t0ry
01-02-2008, 02:58 PM
That clears thing up; thanks!
One question, though: is most of the Oly stuff 'hi-tech' materials like carbon, aluminum, fibreglass, etc... with a bunch of funky metallic colours? Because that's a majority of what I see around the web. If so, how can you consider those 'traditional' even if its barebow?
XCalibre
01-02-2008, 06:02 PM
i think it depends on who you ask. it might not be traditional, but it is barebow, therefore hi-tech barebow shooters shoot along side of guys that make their own longbows. the national and international rulebooks consider any bow without all the accessories like sights and stabilizers, regardless of make or material, as a barebow.
the way i see it, there's pretty much three "subclasses" if you will of barebow, and those are longbow, traditional and barebow. longbows are almost always made of wood and are pretty much a straight, one-piece bow that's been curved by the string. as well, many people make their own longbows, but you can buy them if you like. traditionals are pretty much like what you had; could be made of wood , wood laminates and/or fiberglass that have limbs that curve back. longbows are also included in the definition of traditional bows, but not so much the other way around. and finally barebows, which can be hi-tech recurves or compounds that don't have all the accessories on them. longbows and traditionals are also included in the barebow category.
there's just those little nuances between the classifications. again, this is the way i see it, as the definitions are open to interpretation.
it is mostly target colors, but some manufacturers have more subdued colors, like black, browns and even camo, or you can get the risers custom powder coated.
phil
Xs1t0ry
01-02-2008, 06:51 PM
Thanks, Phil--that makes a lot of sense to me.
In your experience, can someone who normally shoots with sights and stabilizers actually have a chance against the competition when the peripherals come off and it's time to shoot barebow?
XCalibre
01-02-2008, 06:59 PM
well, if one were to do that, they'd need to have practiced shooting the barebow style, because it really is a completely different ball game. without the stabilizers, the bow reacts in a completely different manner. without a sight, you'd have to figure out another way to aim, either by what's called "stringwalking" or aiming straight down the arrow shaft. there are more ways, but those i can say off the top of my head. it really is another skill that can be learned in archery.
Xs1t0ry
01-02-2008, 07:01 PM
So one can be good at both then? And by good I mean competition-level.
XCalibre
01-02-2008, 07:17 PM
oh yeah. one can be good at all types of archery (compound, recurve, traditional, bowhunting, target, 3D, etc...) if they wanted to and had the time and motivation to do it.
stevegabriel
01-03-2008, 09:38 AM
Debates about what is "Traditional" can be ... troublesome. People get very opinionated.
Fred Bear used aluminum arrows and a bow with a magnesium riser at one point in his career.
That said, the choices are personal and sometimes we worry too much about what others think.
Here's my story, perhaps it can help you.
I laid off of archery around 1973-74. Started again in August 2006. I used an all glass bow, about 30 lbs, and some aluminum arrows that were spined for bow in the 50 lb range.
I wanted to eventually go with either:
a) a longbow with wood arrows because it just looked so cool or
b) an oly style rig and shoot barebow since the oly rig allowed a great degree of tunability.
Then I bought a used 45 lb bow ('semi recurve') for $50 and played with that for a few months. I found I shot better when I glued a measuring tape (cm) to the belly of the bow and used the marks as references. It was fun until the bow broke( it was 47 years old).
I even ordered a test kit of wood arrows from 3 Rivers and tried them. I loved them but broke 4 out of 8 arrows the first day and realised that until I became a better shot, wood arrows were a bit expensive.
After the Bear Alaskan broke, I was able to test a Quinn comet XL-3D, a metal risered bow.
That bugger could shoot! 42 lbs. @ 28", roughly 50 lbs with my 31.5" draw, she was pointon looking down the arrow shaft at 60 yards! That made up my mind. I would scrounge up the cash for a metal risered bow.
Someone gave me a beautiful set of Oly limbs so I bought a T-Rex riser, plunger and a rest. I've been having a blast ever since.
I still like the longbow and someday I hope to get one to play with, but right now my 66" Oly rigis treating me really well and if I could have only 1 bow, this or the Comet XL-3D would be it.
I hope this helps.
Steve
Xs1t0ry
01-03-2008, 12:39 PM
This is all very interesting. I am actually going tomorrow morning to look at a new recurve at a local proshop and I have my eye on the KAP risers (I've pretty much already decided to go with a pair or 25# Pro Style limbs to start off), namely the Pro Style, T-Rex or Winstar.
How's the T-Rex working for you?
stevegabriel
01-03-2008, 02:05 PM
I love it! but remember the only other metal risered bow I ever tried was a Quinn and that for 2 weekends!
Ok. I like field archery and 3D. I like walking thru the woods and shooting uphill, downhill and all that other good stuff. The T-Rex with medium length limbs gives me a 66" bow.
I'm 6'4" 290 lbs. The 66" bow is really easy for a big guy like me to handle on the field course. It's the smoothest bow I've ever shot as well as the longest.
That said, conventional wisdom says longer bows are smoother, so most Oly shooters prefer a 68"or 70" bow. You have to decide what type of shooting you prefer to do and go from there. Comes down to whether you like your coffee black or with milk.:)
Have fun!
Xs1t0ry
01-03-2008, 05:54 PM
Thanks, I will!
I guess it would come down to budget when I go to get my new bow tomorrow. I'll keep in mind that height rule, though--I am looking to do Oly shooting so I'll try for at least a 66", maybe 68".
Cheers,
Eric
vBulletin® v3.8.6, Copyright ©2000-2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.